Ben Reynolds 21/12/25 Ben Reynolds 21/12/25

Sicily on Film – September 2025

A recent trip to Sicily. 2 weeks exploring the west coast of Sicliy around Palermo and the Aeolian Islands

With only two weeks to spare, we decided to explore the western coast of Sicily, going as far west as San Vito Lo Capo and as far east as Cefalu on the main land, and then of course the highlight of the trip, the Aoelian Isalnds. It was a journey of contrasts: ancient cities and timeless villages, volcanic islands and tranquil beaches, all woven together by Sicily’s warmth and authenticity.

One thing that stood out for me was that we were constantly surrounded by a sweet smell which I could not work out what is was at the time, but on return informed me it must be…

a vibrant mix of sun-baked citrus (lemons, oranges, bergamot), fragrant Mediterranean flora (jasmine, neroli, rosemary, oleander, lavender), fresh sea salt, and rich culinary aromas like cannoli, hot bread, tomatoes, olive oil, pistachios, and seafood, all mingling with notes of earth, volcanic soil, and sweet blossoms like almond and prickly pear.

…, so thanks for narrowing that down Chat GPT.

So our journey began in Palermo, Sicily’s vibrant capital. After landing, we headed to our Airbnb, a basic but lovely room on the top floor, looking down onto and over the main street of Palermo. Palermo has one main street nestled between two mountains so the view and vibe was amazing to start out journey.

The next day we hired a car and drove west towards Scopello, a picturesque traditional village with roots in the old tuna fishing trade. With mountains on one side and ocean on the other, the drive had amazing views, winding through narrow streets, dramatic cliffs, vineyards and olive groves.

We were amazed to reach our destination town of Scopello, a quaint village that looked like something out of the Godfather movie set. A wedding was taking place place as we pulled in.

Our Airbnb in Scopello was perfectly placed, walking distance to a small beach nestles amongst rocks that petruded from the ocean, gum trees and prickly pears. We packed a picnic lunch of breads and tuna from a shop on way and spent the afternoon on the beach.

The next day we found another local beach just down the road, one that felt much closer to the Italian beach I had been imagining — busier, social, and full of everyday life, rows of orange umbrellas, and small pebbles which you could hear clinking together and echoing when you put your head under water.

… and then did a road trip to San Vito Lo Capo, a town I had visited 20 years earlier (see below), but had changed a lot and the beach was now covered in umbrellas and way too busy.

me, 20 years earlier with two local friends

… and then back to Palermo on the coastal road, stopping for a night at Castellammare del Golfo, a beautiful town which we walked around and had a seafood dinner looking over some wild lighting and light rain.

In Palermo we did a bit mroe exploring the streets. An espresso or two, taken standing at the bar of a very traditional café, quickly became routine — along with wandering past cathedrals, down small winding streets, and through the Ballarò markets.

The following day we did a day trip east of Palermo by train to Cefalù, famous for its striking Cefalù Cathedral, lively piazzas, and a starring role in The White Lotus, the town had an incredible atmosphere—part medieval charm, part seaside buzz. And for me a chocolate icecream in brioche, one of the many times I had one in Sicily, but this one was the most memorable.

Next, we left the mainland behind and ventured to the Aeolian Islands, a volcanic archipelago known for its raw beauty. Each island had its own character:

The first isalnd we landed on via an 1hr long hydrofoil trip from Plaermo was Alicudi, the smallest and most remote, felt like stepping back in time. With no cars and only donkeys for transport, its rugged serenity was unforgettable.

ALICUDI

‘I live about 20 minutes boat ride from Alicudi town, or 45min walk when its winter and too rough to row my boat”

Salina, lush and mountainous, offered a contrast with its green hillsides, vineyards, and colourful towns bustling with local life. From out bedroom at our AirBNB we had clear uninterrupted views the volcanic drama of Stromboli, always simmering on the horizon—a reminder of Sicily’s fiery origins.

Unfortunately island life had to end so we headed back to mainland Sicily, where we had a night in Mondello Beach just out of Palermo before flying home.